December 20th – an update at last

Hi folks, sorry for the delay, been hit by a cyclone and had no power, mostly off rather than on, and no water. The days have flown past since my last blog which seems a lifetime ago. Walking has been wonderful. Mostly sands which stretch forever, broken up only by fishing villages. Then the swamp [...]

By | December 20th, 2016|Donkeys|0 Comments

16th November – Day 1, the journey to Vijayapati continued: The old men and the sea.

On this first morning I understood that by walking I had left one India and I was visiting another. In comparison to the taunting, bustling towns and cities, the coastal villages are silent places. Standing on a beach front village I am thinking - where is the strong Indian desire for the impact of modernity [...]

By | November 28th, 2016|Donkeys|0 Comments

16th November – Day 1, the journey to Vijayapati continued: The Mighty Ark builders

The journey was a few hundred steps, certainly less than a kilometre, but I am guessing…. Was it hearing the clamour of symbols from Kanyakumari where many temples had faded? Or having my feet firmly in contact with the sand, or was it when I realised I was breathing in fresh sea air? Or was it [...]

By | November 16th, 2016|Donkeys|0 Comments

16th November – Day 1, the journey to Vijayapati: The very first step

I am walking again! And for the first steps to Calcutta I dipped my feet into the holy waters of the India Ocean to bless my naked feet and wish me well on a journey of a million steps. Alongside me a young woman was having fun with the lapping waves breaking between the numerous [...]

By | November 16th, 2016|Donkeys|0 Comments

15th November – Kanyakumari: Wonderings with a will, a desire and a passion

The pilgrims shouted and whistled as the timeworn boat lurched and shuddered away from the harbour into the open sea. The short hop from Kanyakumari to the two islands is for most of the pilgrims their first sea crossing. However, I must not forget there are also holiday makers as well as pilgrims, and it [...]

By | November 15th, 2016|Donkeys|0 Comments

13th & 14th November – Poover: The mad and the bad!

After the beauty of the Marari Beach I drove an ugly, busy, unattractive road south for two days. The type of road India is notorious for. Clogged with busses covered in passengers like buzzy bees, overloaded lopsided lorries with bolts holding the last fragment of the rubber to the tyres, a million motorbikes darting here [...]

By | November 14th, 2016|Donkeys|0 Comments

12th November – Marari Beach: The strange tale of a boxer

I woke up feeling less like a puffer fish and more like a mammal. Still my eyes were uncomfortable, however my cheeks stung less. At least I could see the Landy from my balcony and knew I was finally on my way to KanyaKumari to start walking, except my visa was still in quandary and [...]

By | November 12th, 2016|Donkeys|0 Comments

11th November – Cochin: Jesus, me and a glass of the undrinkable

I woke up thinking I was a puffer fish. My eyes inflamed and sticking together, cheeks as red as hot molting lava and my neck an itchy forest. The only sunshine on the horizon a what’s app from the shipper. George would be collecting me at 2.30 pm. But even this sunshine was being chased by [...]

By | November 11th, 2016|Donkeys|0 Comments

10th November: Cochin – Gods of all flavours and then hell breaks loose.

I was up early this morning. I had been thinking about the realities of a Graham Green novel and wanted to see the old colonial priest preach to his congregation. I wondered across from my home stay. The sun had been up an hour, even if it was still before seven. The worshippers solemn chanting [...]

By | November 10th, 2016|Donkeys|0 Comments

November 9th, Cochin: A character in my own Graham Green novel

Back in Cochin and the days are getting progressively slower. I am sitting around in this old colonial outpost waiting for my Land Rover to arrive. The shipping agent keeps shifting the arrival date with a shrug of his shoulders as if to say ‘it is God's will’ and then apologises, adding ‘it is best if you [...]

By | November 9th, 2016|Donkeys|0 Comments